Archive for May 2010

beer and sumo wrestlers


Above: only the coolest thing that's ever happened to me IN MY LIFE.

When two sumo wrestlers randomly walked into the same bar as us on Saturday night, I did something I have never done before and will probably never do again, and asked our Japanese friends to see if it was cool to get a photo together (the other guy in the photo is Scott, one of the previous teachers, who was passing through town). Not only were they cool with it, but the guy of the left even put his yukata back on for the photo. Sometimes I forget how far from home we are, but there's something about a massive sumo wrestler filling up the frame of an izakaya door that instantly reminds you that you're not in California. It was immensely cool (er, pun intended). 



After that was a taste of home, or something like it, at the San Diego bar-slash-surf shop, where Scott is friends with the awesome owner, who has decorated the walls of the bar bathroom with fading photos of his years spent surfing in San Diego in the 70s. It was so much fun to have a night out on the town for the first time in who knows how long, even if staying up too late meant we missed seeing the sumo wrestlers participate in the Crying Baby Festival early the next morning. Oh, well. 

nijin no sato




Despite appearances, we did not go to London this weekend.


Or the Pacific Northwest.


Above: a very blurry Yuka, Satoshi, and Iain in the rain.

Shuzenji's usually expensive botanic gardens were offering a lower rate for Numazu residents today, so, despite the pouring rain, and gaijin cards in hand, we went to check them out with Yuka and Satoshi. 


The gardens were beautiful, even if the "British Village" was a bit unnerving (and the "Indian Fort" was just ... weird), but within ten minutes we were both SOAKED. Fortunately it wasn't too cold, but I stupidly screwed up my camera: my favorite lens won't focus now, so, I'm keeping my fingers crossed it'll magically fix itself once it gets dry. 




Above: Hey, Iain, how are you doing?*

Afterwards, Satoshi drove us to nearby Heda (through some spectacularly misty, almost tropical looking mountains that made both me and Iain stare speechlessly out the windows the whole time) and we all had seafood next to the Heda waterfront. 


Mmm, fish tempura. 

Tomorrow it's back to the work - Mondays have gotten longer now that I work overtime in the evenings, leaving Wednesday my only day where I'm free by 1 pm (or earlier). But a little extra money doesn't hurt, especially since - now that we're actually staying in one place for more than 3 months - I just ordered a bunch of acid dye online so I can hand paint my own yarn; I've never done this before, though I've wanted to for years. It's insane how much I missed making things while I was living in Vietnam: when I lived in Brooklyn, I was always sewing or knitting or making something, not to mention cooking up elaborate meals with Lenora every weekend. Now that we suddenly have a real apartment after two plus years spent living out of suitcases, I'm trying to reign in my not-always-particularly-practical impulses to start up massive crafty and food-y undertakings, but, it's not easy (see: the garden). 

* "Plum Dandy," in case you can't read the nameplate in the photo. There, Iain, I did just like you said you should. So if you didn't like that joke, blame Iain; and if you did like it, you should lobby for him to write his own blog so we can all hear his report on the men's bathroom graffiti situation in Numazu (hint: it's not pretty). 

nature walk


Above: ominous clouds over a field. 

On Saturday, some of Iain's students invited us to join them on a 12 kilometer nature walk in a nearby town, so we pulled ourselves out of bed uncharacteristically early to meet up with them. The walk itself was being sponsored by the JR Line - our train to the starting point was packed with people in walking gear, there were JR employees handing out maps, and the entire route had been sign-posted. We all got little badges, too - a lot of the hikers we passed (or who passed us) wore backpacks covered in tiny badges from similar such walks.  Iain's students are all beginner English speakers who hadn't explained it very much, so I didn't know what to expect - at first, it seemed like we were just being herded through lots of farmland. 



Tea plants.


Soon enough, though, we were climbing up hills and passing through shrines and forests.


Some seriously weather-worn statues. 



Wisteria blooming in the trees. 


Three quarters of way to the end, there was a special "Green" festival, where we were given free postcards and (very excitingly) free packets of basil seeds! Also there was some drag ballroom dancing. 


And a monkey doing crazy tricks! Who doesn't like monkeys? (Some of those kids, by the looks on their faces.) 


Also, there was a crazy beautiful waterfall. AND I bought a cone of cotton candy the size of my entire head, and totally disgraced myself by eating the whole thing in front of Iain's lovely students. So, all in all, a pretty good day - this area just keeps getting more and more beautiful. 

this morning in the garden


Peas! I love picking peas - when we were kids, my mom used to grow armfuls of them for us; it was probably the first plant that made me realize you could grow enough food to actually eat or that you didn't have to buy. Even now, buying peas feels like a waste of money when I grew up eating baskets-full in our backyard. Probably not the case with these peas, though - after a month of producing only vines and creepers, there are only two actual pods at the moment. Next time I plant peas, it'll be in a place with more light. 

A few photos from the garden this morning - I know I say this all the time, but, I love our garden! Today I started experimenting with natural pesticides to combat the bugs that have been eating all my basil. Though there's a garlic and pepper recipe I'm going to cook later tonight, I figured I'd start with something simpler, and just used some soapy water in a spray bottle. I read on the internet that the soap can paralyze harmful insects, and I've already managed to freeze a few of them (they really do freeze - I'd feel bad if they weren't decimating my plants) while misting the leaves this morning, so, fingers crossed that it'll work. 


My attempts to make the garden Iain-friendly, since he isn't as obsessive about it as I am. The herbs are one of my favorite things in our tiny garden. It's not like we'll ever grow enough vegetables in such a tiny patch to feed ourselves, but there's always enough for a handful of herbs when I'm cooking.


I love lavender! It's one of the only flowers doing well, and they remind me of California.


Tiny proto-tomato flowers.


Cucumber flowers! 


Radish sprouts from the first batch of seedlings. 

shimoda(下田市)part 2


above: Although the tiny aquarium (the only such floating aquarium of its kind, apparently) was, at nearly $20 a person, too expensive for us, we were able to see the massive sea turtles and frolicking dolphins who live outside its walls for free. 

A few more details from Shimoda; weeks (and weekends!) fly by too fast here all of a sudden, and I am behind in e-mails and everything else, as usual. At any rate, there was a lot to like about Shimoda - we were happy just to pick up a copy of the English tourist map that's liberally scattered throughout the city, and wander around for the two days that we were there. 





There were  more decaying, overgrown buildings than I've seen elsewhere in Japan (not that I've been to more than like, four cities).


There were also well-meaning signs pointing to Fuji-san, Taipei and New York ...


... though not particularly helpfully. 

red!


When we came back from Shimoda the other week, the first of our strawberries had turned red! As you can see from the photo below, they were tiny and lumpy and a bit soft when we ate them, but I was just so amazed something substantial had grown (!) in our garden that it was still unbelievably exciting. That was a week ago, and already there are four more looking almost ready to pick. They are marginally less funny looking than the first batch. 




In other gardening related news, something keeps eating my basil. Not cool, bugs! I'm trying to find some natural way to deter them, but my first few cursory google searches yield things that sound like they're made at Hogwarts (dissolve one tsp fish emulsion into the solution and stir counterclockwise). Oh, well, still looking. 


Also, I planted basil, cilantro and radish seeds in tiny paper cups two weekends ago (thanks to my mom, who sent me seeds). They're really cute, though I've forgotten which one is which now. 

Shimoda(下田市)


Back from our Golden Week* foray to Shimoda, which is at the far eastern corner of the Izu Peninsula and about a 2 hour scenic train ride from Numazu, and which has a nice, tropical, laid-back beach town atmosphere. Our hotel was small and cheap, with old porn VCRS stacked neatly under the TV and a friendly owner who asked us to transcribe the English lyrics to a country music song he was trying to play on the guitar, and whose friendly wife randomly gave us a can of beer each as we came home one night. 



The more I see of this entire area, the more I love it, and both of us were smitten by Shimoda, with its friendly beach-side coffee shops and winding footpaths that follow the shore. It reminded me a little of being in Hawaii; and I definitely hope we can go back every now and then.


At any rate, I'm exhausted now and so will post more later about Black Ships and drowned concubines. 


* And a very happy Showa Day, Constitution Memorial Day, Greenery Day and Children's Day to you! 

secret composting, my lovely leaf-stealing mom, and other garden-y things



I spent at least an hour today uprooting weeds, moving rocks and digging massive holes in the garden, which was tough work (Iain cut his finger with our "Yay it's FINALLY PAYDAY" new kitchen knife and so wasn't able to help); it was intensely satisfying even if I got pinioned beneath the heavier-than-it-looks rotting wooden platform after a particularly strong wind blew it on top of me. I'd been very excited about today for almost a month now, because today was compost burying day, and if you don't share my giddiness about this, then possibly you didn't grow up in a household that siphoned bathwater two stories down into the garden during droughts or where the term non-indigenous invasive plant has become a dirty word. That last sentence was quite long and possibly nonsensical, but that's how excited I was today. 


The minute I realized we had a garden, I suddenly couldn't think about anything else except starting a compost pile. I blame this squarely on my warm, funny, wonderful mother, who has set the bar high when it comes to stealing people's trash in the name of making the world a nicer place*. Though I spent most of my childhood cringing every time she picked through the trash and chided us for throwing away tea bags, or pulling the car over so she could ask neighbors for their grass clippings, clearly she made more of an influence on me than I'd ever imagined, because the thought of gardening without some sort of compost system just seems ...wrong, somehow. This may be because, thanks in part to her compost, my mom has the most beautiful garden in the world (not that I'm biased), which routinely turns out a wealth of delicious vegetables and herbs. Or it may be because, the more environmentally conscious the rest of the world gets, the more I realize my mom has been ahead of her time for years. Either way, I immediately started exploring my options given our smallish kitchen and smaller yard.


Though I toyed with the idea of ordering worms on eBay (is that weird? I think it might be a bit weird) and starting a worm bin, I quickly stumbled on a Japanese form of anaerobic composting called bokashi. There are many, many comprehensive explanations of exactly how it works elsewhere on the internet, but basically: kitchen scraps go in the bucket, you sprinkle a handful of bokashi bran on top, seal the bucket, repeat till full, periodically draining the liquid runoff, and then eventually bury the contents, which have been fermenting away without smelling wildly unpleasant, in the garden, where, according to the internet, they will break down considerably more quickly and without attracting pests. I am really, really praying that this last part is true.


above: the inside of a brand new, sparkly clean, bokashi bin.

As for finding the bokashi bin itself, I can only profusely thank Yuka, the nicest person in Numazu. Our first week at work, she told us to ask her for help if there was anything we needed. I don't think she imagined that the first request would be for a highly specialized compost bin (she hadn't heard of bokashi) but within 24 hours she had found one.


At any rate, after a few weeks, the bin was finally full and ready to bury, which is why I spent the morning digging three massive trenches in the garden. You can't see them in the photo above (which is the garden after I was finished) because I am slightly paranoid about weirding out our neighbors and so - with Iain standing guard - buried everything as furtively as possible, in furtive shifts, with many furtive glances to make sure no one was watching. We haven't had much contact with our neighbors at all, though sometimes the old woman who hangs her laundry on the other side of that white fence points to our flowers and chatters about them too quickly to be understood. As nice as she seems, I'm a bit worried how the sight of a bunch of kitchen waste being freely buried might look in trash-disposal-obsessed Japan, and my Japanese is not up to the task of no, don't worry, thanks to an innovative fermentation process, this kitchen waste has been restructured on a molecular level and so is no longer appealing to pests, so please don't call our landlord. 


Above: in case you were wondering how I'm frittering away the money from my first paycheck while Iain is out buying knives (and decent frying pans): multi-colored nasturtiums! 

Anyway, three trenches and a lot of very pickle-y smelling vegetable scraps later, the first batch of compost has been clandestinely buried. So now, we start over and wait, and I'll try to keep any further compost related developments to much shorter, less-digression prone entries, as I'm pretty sure the only person reading this at this point is my mom (Hi Mom!) In the meantime, tomorrow we get our Golden Week on and head down to Shimoda, where there are (we've heard) both white-sand beaches and the Black Ships that brought the first Westerners to the island. 

* because when you're a kid and your mom has the only compost bucket in the neighborhood, that's sure what it seems like. The fetid smell of grass clippings will always remind me of being nine years old and so totally convinced I have the weirdest mom on the planet. 

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