Showing posts with label japan. Show all posts

ode to monkey sticks


above: yakitori at the Ishioka matsuri last fall

Entirely unrelated to all and any earlier posts about Lucky the monkey, I swear: I love all kinds of Japanese food, but yakitori - grilled chicken skewers - may be my all time favorite. They're cheap, decidedly un-fussy, and easy to order - which make me love them all the more in expensive, culinarily-intimidating Japan - and they fill the gaping void left in my heart by Hanoi's amazing, food-poisoning-logic-defying chicken street. Or maybe I just love them because they make awesome bar food, so I just associate them with beer, friends, and having a nice evening out? In any case, this post is my ode to our favorite yakitori haunt in Numazu, which Iain and I referred to rather unoriginally as Monkey Sticks: 


above: guess why.

Yuka introduced us to Monkey Sticks our first month in Numazu, and she was also the one to break the news that Monkey Sticks' days are limited: with imminent remodeling happening at nearbye Numazu Station, Monkey Sticks is closing down with no new location yet in sight. Fortunately, it stayed open throughout the end of our stay in Numazu.


Two of my favorite yakitori sticks: liver (リバ) and kashira (okay, I am not entirely sure what part of what animal that came from, but it was delicious). 


above: a sign of a successful meal




Maggie also approved.

animal park


You know how awkward it feels when you bid goodbye to someone and then bump into them ten minutes later? That's sort of how it feels to blog about Numazu after writing my too-long and rambly goodbye post. But in any case, the weekend before our last, some of Iain's students took us out for one last excursion, to the Fuji Animal Safari Park.



The safari park is half zoo, half "safari" - in which you board one of these buses, and drive through a Jurassic park-esque safari filled with bored-looking wildlife.


On the bus, you sit safe behind the bars armed with a pair of metal tongs and a bowl of carrots and  raw meat...


... so that you can FEED the lions and bears. No big deal. 


You can also forgo the raw meat and the bus and drive your own car through - stopping periodically at heavily fortified gates that separate the different types of animals. Iain's students wanted to drive through twice. Though it seems like a perfect storm for a disaster, we made it through with only one tiger-induced traffic jam.


It seemed like a lot of lions for such a small place? 




In the "zoo" part of the park, there was an alarmingly wide array of animals we were allowed to feed by hand. The highlights were the wallabys...


You were allowed to go INSIDE the cage. So weird, and yet, so cute.


... and also there were hungry squirrel monkeys! For 50 yen, you could feed them a handful of sunflower seeds.




Don't say you weren't warned?


There was also an area where children could manhandle pick up and pet guinea pigs and rabbits. Not as exciting, but it did yield a truly awesome sign.

sayonara


above: Numazu and Senbon Beach, from our last climb up Kanuki!

It was so hard to say goodbye to Numazu, though fortunately we were so busy that we didn't have much time to dwell on being sad. Our last week was spent saying goodbye to all the students - most of whom we'd seen every week for the last year, frantically cleaning up the apartment, making runs to the post office and trying to leave things in order for the future teachers (whose arrival was delayed by the earthquake, so we never got to actually meet them!), all amidst rolling blackouts and goodbye festivities.


The last three days in town in particular were a complete blur: there was a takoyaki (octopus balls) party at Satoshi's house on Saturday...


above: oishii! 

And then on Sunday, the official school goodbye party at our favorite karaoke place: 


For some of my students, their last memory of me will be of me realizing that, other than the title phrase, I do not, actually, know the words to Kiss Me. (NOT a song I chose to sing - Yuka made me do it!) Sorry about that, guys.


Iain and Satoshi sang the song from Totoro (in Japanese!) much more successfully.

When we arrived a year ago, the karaoke welcome/goodbye party was fun, but a bit overwhelming, full of people we didn't know. One year later, we had so much fun we didn't want to leave, although - several beers later - we reluctantly remembered we had one last day of work tomorrow, and wobbled home on our bikes around eleven.


We drove past this hot pink car EVERY DAY for a year. 

We were amazingly not hungover the next morning when we drove to work one last time. 


above: the apartment, looking cleaner than it ever did all year.

After that, there wasn't much to do except finish scrubbing down the apartment and trying to wedge everything into our backpacks. In three days, we had somehow managed to go from this: 


... to this:


boom.

We bid farewell to our boss and Numazu, and hopped on the shinkansen to Osaka, where we were able to say goodbye to Yuka, who just moved there. On Tuesday morning, we flew in Ho Chi Minh City in time to have a bowl of pho for dinner:


It felt amazing to step off the plane into Vietnam - and very intensely strange to go from our home in Numazu to the streets of Ho Chi Minh City in just a little over 24 hours. In all the excitement of being in Vietnam again, Numazu now feels really far away, but looking through the pictures that I've haphazardly thrown up on the blog (not the best photos, sorry) is definitely making me miss it much more now. 


There are so many people we will miss horribly: our awesome friend Yuka, who made us feel welcome the minute we arrived and who was always up for a coffee and cake, or a night of yakitori, or a photo-taking excursion; it's been a long time since I had someone to geek out about cameras or crafty stuff with! Also her husband Kenji, who spoke very little English but who was always hilarious; our lovely boss Kiyoko, who was always so kind, patient and helpful to us, and who is partially retiring herself, having sold the school, so hopefully she can enjoy some well-deserved relaxation. It was a pleasure to work with her, and also her husband Eiji, who patiently drove us both all around the greater Izu area; ALL of our students, but especially Satoshi, who often joined Yuka and Kenji on excursions or nights out; and Daisuke and Toshihiko, who invited us out to some seriously amazing dinners and whose lovely families we were always happy to spend time with. We also worked with some really nice part time teachers, particularly Susan, Paul and Michel, who could always be counted on for early morning banter over the copy machines. I will miss all my classes, but especially my super-cute nursery school kids and the amazing students of my Friday evening Advanced class, who were collectively the most interesting, intelligent and hilarious people ever. We were so lucky to have gotten to know everyone, and we will miss them so, so much.



But mostly we'll just miss life in Numazu itself: getting to know some of the friendliest people in the world, the pretty drives to work in the mornings, the beach, the mountains, our small apartment with its tiny garden, the nomikai (drinking parties) with our students. We never got tired of it; we were always happy to be there in our sleepy city under the shadow of Fuji-san. Early on in our year, one of my students said that the sight of Fuji let him know he was home. For one awesome, full, too-fast year, the same was true for us. Sayonara, Numazu - we'll miss you! 

24 hours to go...


I don't have any relevant photos for this post, so instead you get this: kangaroos having a sissy fight! 

I'm waiting for Iain to finish showering so we can go to our official goodbye party - though there've been all manner of goodbye festivities with various classes and friends over the last couple of days, making this one seriously sad week. If all goes well, we will be on a shinkansen speeding towards Osaka this time tomorrow night so we can catch our early morning flight to Ho Chi Minh City on Tuesday. We spent all day today frantically cleaning our apartment - the next teachers to take our job will live elsewhere, so there's ten years worth of detritus to sift through - and now that the place is scrubbed clean and less cluttered, it looks and feels just like it did when we arrived a year ago.

Anyway, I want to post more about Numazu and Japan and the people we were lucky enough to know while we were here, which I hopefully will - right now we are so insanely disgustingly busy and overwhelmed that all the the things I try to do have completely fallen by the wayside. But, three days from now, we'll be sitting on a beach, having arrived in much-loved, much-missed Vietnam exactly two years to the day after leaving it, tracing the same route backwards from Ho Chi Minh to Phu Quoc to Hanoi. So, more from Vietnam, soon, hopefully...

earthquake


above: a reporter wears a helmet shortly after the Shizuoka-based earthquake on Tuesday night.

We are all fine in Numazu, though everyone here is devastated by what's happening up north. On the Friday of the earthquake, Iain had just left for work and I was drying my hair, waiting for my sister's plane to land in a few hours. Iain, on his bike, barely felt the earthquake, though he noticed cars stopping and people clutching trees; in our apartment, I thought I was dizzy at first: the floor rolled rather than shook - everyone we talk to agrees, it felt like being on a boat, and it went on an incredibly a long time.  Since then, things have been pretty subdued. Mostly we read the news obsessively and wait for power cuts (we've only had one so far). A few classes have been cancelled due to the limited train service, and the grocery stores are picked clean of batteries, rice and, bewilderingly, toilet paper; but otherwise life here over the last week was surreally normal in the wake of what's happening elsewhere in the country. My sister made it here, after a brief detour to Sapporo when her plane was diverted, and I feel terrible that people back home were worrying on both our accounts, but we really are fine, just horribly saddened by reading the news. 


above: Tsunami warnings after the Sendai Earthquake on Friday.

So anyway, that's here; for anyone trying to keep on top of the news - there's always a bit of a time lapse between the news here and overseas - here are some things I've found helpful: 

sakura in february!


Iain has a friend visiting, so last weekend we went down to Shimoda. With only four weeks left in Numazu (!), it was quite likely our last visit for the time being, which made it both awesome and kind of sad. 


There is much to love about Shimoda, like its' gorgeous beaches (which I think are even prettier in the winter off-season)...


... kaiten sushi...


...also, friendly, giant sea-turtles. 


... and stray cats getting their hanami (flower-viewing) on.


Most of the hanami action was in nearby Kawazu, where the canal is already lined with an explosion of sakura. 


Not pictured: a hoard of fellow camera-toting hanami enthusiasts. 






hakone: do not touch doubtful things


After living in it's shadow for nearly a year, we (finally) went up to Hakone last weekend, whereapon we promptly realized that 
a) Hakone is gorgeous, and
b) extremely easy to get to, and
c) there is a lovely and extremely reasonably priced hotel there, and
d)we are idiots for not having gone sooner, and then gone again and again throughout the year.



Good advice.

above: are those ORGANS for sale in that vending machine?

I don't know, that looks pretty doubtful to me.


Iain followed the sign's advice and did not touch any dubious things. He did, however, touch several things rather dubiously:




When Iain wasn't attracting stares by maligning innocent statues, we were having a lovely time. We stayed at a really lovely guesthouse that we both fell in love with - super friendly English speaking staff, gorgeous tatami rooms, and - best of all - a PRIVATE outdoor onsen that you can book for 30 minute slots. Having never been to an onsen before, I was particularly excited about this. Also, for the onsen-clueless, there are many helpful signs in English (and a binder's worth of information in the rooms) to help avoid onsen faux pas. For anyone in the area, I can't recommend this place more - it strikes the perfect blend of authenticity and foreigner-friendliness, which - in a country where, even after more than a year, I still stick my foot in my mouth with alarming regularity - is much appreciated. 



The area around our hotel is famous for tall grass. 


We also went to the coolest bar on the planet. It wasn't a bar so much it was buying a bottle of beer in your grandmother's basement (well, Grandma Tokuda's basement), with stacks of old videos, Japanese National Geographics, yellowing posters on the walls, fake flowers, doubtful things in bottles and a disproportionate amount of cat paraphernalia*. Also a gruff owner who greeted us with a single question ("Beer?"), asked Iain to point to his hometown on a map, and gave us free snacks and a shot of shochu. 




The next day we went on the standard tourist circuit, which consists mostly of a gondola ride up the mountain, ostensibly to see some stunning views of Fuji-san... 


... though, as you can see, our views were limited to brief flashes of fellow-gondolas, all to the sounds of a perky English and Japanese audio recording informing us that if we look to the left, we can see a spectacular view of Fuji.



Similarly, most of the attractions at the mountain top "view point" were also centered around the non-existant view. (Seriously, what IS that guy looking at?)


After our slightly disappointing gondola ride, we went on a pirate ship cruise (Why pirate ship? Who knows?) of Lake Ashi, which was beautiful, if freezing.




We ♥  Hakone. 

* My grandmother would not have cat paraphernalia anywhere

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