Archive for April 2010

ambiguity



Last Thursday, I think I not only botched a roomful of pre-schoolers' understanding of the words boy and girl, but also deeply traumatized one little boy in particular by referring to him as - you guessed it - a girl. Smooth move. In my defensive, he had long, flowing hair, so I hope he at least directs some of his anger at his hairstylist in addition to me when he's sitting on a therapist's couch years from now.

At any rate, I got mine this morning when I discovered that a) apparently my photo blog was listed as one of 47 Awesome Photojournalism blogs and b) they think I'm a guy. Oh well - I can't pretend it didn't totally make my day, and if that little boy I traumatized knew more than six words of English (bet he's never going to forget the word boy now, though, huh?) I would totally try to explain to him that the same thing happened to me when I was a short-haired little girl, and apparently, has continued well into my long-haired adulthood as well.

up


Every morning, we drive by a range of mountains (the "Numazu Alps," apparently) which run alongside the river that runs through town and half the way to our first job of the day; today we hopped on our bikes and rode about 15 minutes to the base of the nearest one, which looks like this: 



(er, which looked like this, two weeks ago, when the sakura were in bloom). 



At the top, we found a completely empty meadow of trees with a few remaining cherry blossom trees and panoramic views of Numazu. 




Also on top, we found a (slightly more crowded) observation deck (you can see the spires in the second photo above), which offered unobscured views of Senbon beach.


And also views of Mt. Fuji  - or at least, views of the clouds obscuring Mt. Fuji. There's a helpful sculpture that lets you get your bearings, though.


Or, if you're Iain, lets you live out a lifelong Godzilla fantasy. 


Speaking of funny pictures, have you ever seen a dog exude so much shame? Seriously, he is mortified. 


On the way back down, Iain leapt over the fence and ran out onto one of the stone dams that bracket the river on the way going up. He swore the view was amazing, and so, even though there were massive and terrifying drops on either side (which you cannot really appreciate just by looking at this photo, unfortunately) and heights with guard-railings make me shaky and panicky, I ventured out to see what he was talking about. 


It was so worth it!


The hill ties with the beach for places I'm going to try and spend as much time as possible. I know I keep saying this, but I really, honestly cannot believe how lucky we are to live here - the more we find out about it, the luckier I feel. 

beach art


It has been raining nonstop for three days now, but you can still see Mt. Fuji on Senbon beach! 

all turned around


One of the things I was the most apprehensive about before this job began was the driving: because we teach all over the place, we have to commute by a variety of means, including driving our boss' improbably tiny van about forty minutes every morning to a big company that lies way out of town, amidst a sea of beautiful rice fields and disconcertingly thin roads which are, even more unsettlingly, slightly elevated above the fields themselves. The first time the previous teachers drove us out there - tiny van unflinchingly plowing forward as every other car on the skinny, un-barrier-ed road rattled by it way too close and way too fast, all I could do was stare at the 2 foot drop on either side of the roads. While driving on the left definitely did my head in a bit are first - particularly since the turn signal and the window wipers are reversed - it turns out that driving on the wrong side of the road is nothing compared to the crash course in spacial perception that is my morning negotiation through the rice paddies. Iain - who grew up in the UK in a town with equally skinny little roads - has had no problems with the driving, but as happy as he is to drive, there are two days a week when I have to head out by myself.



Fortunately, it's been a week, and not only am I getting used to it - my pulse barely races when a bus rattles past me - but I actually am starting to like the drive. There are still a few tricky parts where I have to hold my breath, but in general I just find myself enjoying the route out of town, trundling over and alongside the river (see above), past the cherry-blossom studded Numazu Alps, into the lush fields that surround the office we work at.  I would take it over my subway ride from Fuchu to Shinjuku any day.

new bikes, new bikes!


Don't even pretend like this isn't the coolest bike you've ever seen.

Another really nice thing Yuka did on Saturday was show us some shops selling reasonable priced oritatami - folding - bicycles, so on Sunday we were able to come back, where we found these two bikes had been newly marked down on sale. We had planned on buying bikes since we found out we'd be moving here and Iain had been getting really excited about the idea of folding bikes; the biggest advantage of them is that you can take them with you on the train, which means we can go on epic, long bike rides to the next town over, or bring them with us when we travel. The disadvantage is, with their overgrown-tricycle build, we look like complete idiots on them, especially since one lanky foreigner on a silly looking bike is funny enough, but two on identical bikes is hilarious. The bright Christmas colors on my bike don't help.


Overgrown tricycles or not, though, I love being able to hop on my bike and be at work in five minutes. Even better, we can get to the beach in 20 minutes and ride up and down the bike path to our hearts content, like we did yesterday afternoon after work let out early. It was so insanely idyllic that we found ourselves just saying Oh my god, this is insane, I can't believe we live here over and over again, and stopping so that we could sit on the sea wall and gape at the ocean. Unfortunately, the memory card on my camera fried itself, so only a handful of photos survive. That's okay, though; I have a feeling we'll go back soon enough. 

i ♥ numazu


The Numazu harbor, as seen from the Byuo tsunami gate.

Last Saturday, Yuka, the secretary at our school, and Satoshi, a student of Iain's, took us out for a full day of sightseeing in Numazu. It turned out to be an amazing day - not are Yuka and Satoshi the nicest people ever to drive us all around town showing us around, but it turns out we have lucked out, immensely, in our new home for the next year. 


Yuka and Satoshi in the background, Iain in the front.

Our first stop was the Byuo (literally, Fish View) tsunami gate, whose mechanical workings I'm still a bit unclear on. At any rate, you can go inside for 100 yen and get a panoramic view of the harbor and the sea. 


The Byuo gate from across the harbor. 


Fishing!



The gate itself towers above the Numazu fish market, which is usually packed with hungry locals on the weekends (some of my students have already given me a map, marked with their personal recommendations); Yuka had won a coupon to one of the many restaurants, which she very sweetly shared with all of us. 



My tuna sashimi was probably the best sashimi I've ever had, though maybe it wasn't quite as fresh as Iain's aji (horse mackerel, a local specialty), which came to the table freshly chopped up, and still moving, much to our surprise. The aji tasted pretty good (I waited till it had stopped blinking at us for a taste), but I was secretly relieved that tuna is too big to make its way to your table head still attached.


Iain likes it here too. 

After lunch, we walked around the pier and the beach some more - there is a huge stretch of pebbly beach, complete with a bike path, that I am completely in love with now: beach on one side, forest with running paths on the other, Mt. Fuji overhead on clear days.


So this is where we live, apparently: neither of us can believe our good luck at ending up so close to the beach and the mountains and the woods, but we definitely can't wait to start exploring more.

our new neighbor


Lots more about the amazingness that is Numazu soon, but for now: Fuji-san, coyly peering through the clouds at dusk. On clear days, especially in the morning, we can see it looming huge over the town; after three weeks, it's still pretty awesome to glance in your rear view mirror or out the window of your classroom and see it.

green!



Today, I taught a class of pre-schoolers who kept shouting unko! (poo!) every time I tried to make them say hello. More excitingly, in the stretch of downtime before our morning and evening shifts at work, Iain and I tore up our backyard and started working in earnest on our garden. I love my twice-weekly nursery school shifts, but even a roomful of cute little kids shouting bathroom words is no competition for the awesomeness that is digging giant holes and getting covered in dirt in the first backyard I've ever had in my adult life.


To clarify, when I say garden, I'm referring to the extremely finite little patch of dirt that makes up most of our patio, which we share with the rest of the building (if you look at the first photo, 'our' patch of garden extends to the decaying wooden mystery platform, whose purpose remains unclear) which doesn't get very much sunlight. But, the last teachers who lived here were able to grow tomatoes and rosemary, and the marigolds I haphazardly planted last week in a fit of new-garden-inspired glee seem to be doing okay, so I'm hopeful.


Unfortunately, because the planting instructions are all in kanji, and we're still not entirely familiar with the conditions of the backyard, we both had to admit that this first batch of plants is very much a test run. Any plants that seem to be thriving, we'll plant more of, particularly if we need to replace ones that don't do so well. 


Above: Mmm... mojitos. 


When we moved in, the garden as a large tangle of rocks and weeds. While I haven't been able to sucessfully convince Iain that weeds are pretty and should be allowed to make the garden at least look green (since everything we well-meaningly planted could very well die), we did agree to reroute the rocky areas so that they make nice little borders around the plants, instead of remaining in random rocky patches. Jury's still out on the fate of the weeds in the un-gardened portions of the yard. 


So, at the moment, we have: tomatoes, strawberries, green onions, two wan-looking pea plants, parsley, mint, and a smattering of flowers, including some marigolds and nasturtiums, which accounts for all the sunny spots of the yard, and about half the patio in general. I'm trying not to get too emotionally attached, but I love looking out our bedroom window and seeing our little garden - it's definitely my favorite part of the new apartment, and probably my favorite thing about life in Numazu in general.

spring in izu


Hi from our new home! We arrived here two weeks ago, and finally moved into our apartment last Wednesday in between shadowing the old teachers on the job and gradually taking over the classes our on our own. Numazu, at first glance, seems quiet and small (in a good way, after Tokyo), surrounded by Mt. Fuji on one side and sandy beaches on the other; there are hiking trails and bike paths snaking out towards other cities, and there's also the rest of the Izu peninsula to explore, so we're both feeling pretty excited about our home for the next year. Also, when it's not raining (which it is, usually), it's absolutely beautiful here: on clear days you can see Mt. Fuji looming massively above the city, and the cherry blossoms are in bloom everywhere:


(even on the manhole covers!)

As for the new job: it's hard to tell what it's going to be like, but in general, Iain and I are the only two full time teachers, and we teach a variety of different classes to a variety of levels and ages, most of which only meet once a week. Every morning begins with a long drive, through harrowingly narrow roads, out into the country side for a company class; Mondays and Wednesdays are over by 3:30 but the rest of the days, we work off and on from 8 am - 9 pm. Which means it's a long day, but at least there are long stretches of downtime in the middles where we can go home - on Friday, for example, I taught a class at 8 am, went home, and then walked back to work for a 6:45 evening class. 


We have a lot of flexibility and freedom in terms of what we actually do in class, which is both exciting and a bit daunting to plan.  It's definitely unlike any of the jobs I've had before, but, the students are super friendly and the schedule so far seems busy without being draining, so, here's hoping for a good year! More soon, now that we have internet and - for the first time ever - our very own table to put the computer on!

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