here, there, everywhere

... is however, infinitely cheaper than the shinkanesen and moderately more comfortable than the night buses I took in and out of Hanoi. At any rate, Lenora, Iain and I all piled into the cheapest night bus (cheapest night bus that could be booked in English, at any rate) leaving Tokyo on Friday night, and rolled into Kyoto too early for our hostel to check us in. So, with about five hours of sleep under our belts, we went exploring instead, starting with a bus to Kinkakuji Temple (above), on which we all promptly fell asleep. Fortunately, the stops were called out loudly and in English, so we all woke up on time.

We also visited the Kyoto Museum for World Peace, which, strangely, is not mentioned in Lonely Planet, but which is worth visiting nonetheless, particularly if you - like me and Iain - needed to wash the unapologetically revisionist tone of Tokyo's war exhibit at Yasakuni Shrine out of your mouth. (Fun Fact: did you know that the Japanese inspired Ho Chi Minh to rebel against the French? True story!) At any rate, the Kyoto museum adopts a far more balanced and reflective tone, examining the devastating effects of Japanese militarism on lives of both Japanese and foreign civilians. The one-room basement exhibit is mostly photos - save for a re-created World War Two era Japanese house, and a startlingly heavy replica of a soldier's backpack, which visitors are invited to pick up - and the explanations are a bit sparse, though the English pamphlet fills some blanks and the displays speak for themselves. The second half of the basement turns the focus to worldwide struggles for peace, while the smaller - and less well-signed - upstairs exhibit chronicles mostly Japanese efforts to change the world for the better. Outside, roses transplanted from the Anne Frank house - a donation from her father to the city of Kyoto - drive home the museum's overarching plea for world peace. For any Lonely Planet toting tourists, the museum is midway between Kinkakuji and Ryogen-in Temple, and directions are marked with English signs; if you don't choke up at least a little while watching the (untranslated) animated introductory video depicting a young soldier's life, then there might be something wrong with you.