Archive for May 2011

dam!


The first three days of our road trip were pretty but uneventful - so much so that I needlessly started to worry we'd have no stories to bore people with upon returning - though we did stumble across a pretty massive hydroelectric dam in Na Hang, the small town where we stayed in on our third night.


We knew nothing about the dam at the time, though the presence of eerie ghost trees in the reservoir suggested it must have been fairly new:


Back home, we learned the dam - finished in 2008 and apparently the second largest hydroelectric plant in northern Vietnam - destroyed much of what was once the Na Hang nature reserve. You can read more about that here (though this article was written before the construction started).


The only other thing that happened in Na Hang was that the police showed up at our hotel at 11 pm and demanded to speak to us. We were just about to go to bed, and were a bit freaked out by the hotel lady banging open our door in a panic, but Iain went downstairs to find several bored cops scrutinizing our passports and, after some confusion about the distinctions between Scotland/the UK/Great Britain, they seemed satisfied and left. Crisis averted.

a few more tam dao photos...


... because Tam Dao at sunset is seriously gorgeous.


Iain stands way too near the edge of a cliff. 


The view from where Iain was standing in the above photo.


Even the construction work looks nice! 



The morning after we arrived, we went on a short hike in the national park, where we learned that there is no road so crappy, muddy and steep that a motorbike has not attempted to drive on it (an observation we should have kept in mind when asking people later on about the quality of roads): 

the route


Over the past twelve days or so, we drove to former French hill station Tam Dao...


... from Tam Dao to provincial capital Tuyen Quang...


... from Tuyen Quang to the small town of Na Hang...


... from Na Hang to a road that turned into a giant rock quarry with no end in sight, so we decided to double back, lose a day, and then set out via alternate route (and what turned out to be worse roads)...


... to get to Ba Be lake, where we spent 3 days lazing around...


... then headed further north to Cao Bang, where we spent a few more days visiting caves and waterfalls...


... then drove back down Route 3, spending the night in Bac Kan before driving back to Hanoi yesterday afternoon. Or, more accurately, Iain drove all the way back to Hanoi. I ingloriously crashed my bike and hurt my wrist* on the way out of Ba Be, and so actually the latter half of this trip was a bus trip for me, rather than a bike trip. Not the most heroic story, but well worth learning a) that while a Wave can drive over a veritable quarry of rocks, it is best to steer clear of a single rock lying innocently in the road all on its own, and b) that there are myriad logic-defying ways to wedge a Honda Wave into and onto a Vietnamese bus. 


Misadventures and all, it was an awesome trip! I can't think of a better way to have celebrated our three year anniversary together.

* not like, seriously, hurt, but just sore enough that neither Iain nor I thought it would be a good idea to try to drive on it - don't worry Dad!

Cao Bang



It's our last night in Cao Bang; today we drove - or, more accurately, Iain drove - seven hours on potholed muddy roads clogged with trucks to get to the China border, to see Ban Gioc waterfall.



Real photos of the falls to come - for now, relaxing in our hotel room - I'm just happy we made it at all.



If all goes well, we should be back in Hanoi in two more nights, so, real updates instead of ones clumsily typed out on an iPod to come...

Tam Dao



We have free wifi in our hotel - actually I think it's from the hotel next door, there's a lot of hotels here - which is unexpected but awesome. Today we made the two hour drive from Hanoi to the mountain town Tam Dao. Neither Iain or I have ever been here before, so we were both amazed by how gorgeous the drive was. Real photos to come, but for now:






It is so gorgeous here! Definitely a good start to the bike trip. Who knows if the wifi luck will hold, but more updates to come hopefully.

bike trip!


above: from our last bike trip. Here's hoping for less mud this time...

This time tomorrow, Iain and I will hopefully be on the road for a 10 day(ish) long bike trip up north, on a Honda Wave (me) and a Honda Win (him), in search of a really big waterfall and a cave Ho Chi Minh once stayed in. Wish us luck! 

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