Mekong Delta Biketrip, Day Two: Highway One and a really big bridge to Ben Tre



Inauspicious beginnings: Highway One, which may be my least favorite road in Vietnam, and that includes Hanoi streets known only to me as "Intersection of Doom" and "the Punishment Light." 

Once Iain was well enough (and once we'd seen enough exceptionally bad movies in our hotel room), we picked up our motorbikes from the train station and set off through unrelenting traffic along Highway One and then over a massively steep suspension bridge to Ben Tre. The driving wasn't particularly scenic, but I did get a pretty impressive farmer tan and bragging rights to having driven in the HCMC traffic that so traumatized me when I first got here almost a year ago.


The coolest thing about this bridge is that Wikipedia doesn't think it exists yet. Not a particularly good picture, but you wouldn't really want to linger on this bridge either. 

Fortunately, Ben Tre itself was a nice town, with a busy riverfront and a street market stocked with fresh fruit and Tet decorations. 






The Ben Tre market from the opposite riverbank.

This guy saw me taking the above photo, and whistled and waved at us till I took a photo of him from his 2nd story vantage point. 

Mekong Delta Biketrip, Day One: Tet flowers in Saigon


You will now have nightmares for the rest of the Year of the Buffalo. 

We started the bike trip in a weirdly subdued Saigon, a few days before the official start of Tet; we didn't do much and actually lost a day, because Iain was sick and I like any excuse to lie in bed all day watching bad horror movies, but there was a huge flower market right next to the backpacker district, selling an apparently endless array of yellow and pink flowers, fruit plants and gigantic buffalos made from what look to be lemons or some weird alien flower bulbs.




Round yellow and orange flowers  to symbolize money. 




In case you ever wondered where dragonfruit comes from (outer space, clearly). 

Mekong Delta Biketrip!









A few photos from our six-day motorbike trip through the Mekong Delta. We started from Ho Chi Minh City after picking up our bikes from the train station, and didn't cover a huge amount of ground (which was good, considering the almost constant traffic), but I loved going at such a lazy pace, with lots of stops for photos, iced coffee and fresh coconuts, and the whole route was intensely beautiful. So, many more photos to follow, and more about each place. For now, it's surprisingly nice to be back in Hanoi, where the traffic has died down some since it's insane pre-Tet madness, and where the pho is worlds better (sorry, Mekong pho, but it's true).

Mekong Delta biketrip/ Happy Tet!

A brief, photo-less post to say hello from Sa Dec, a small city in the Mekong Delta - for some reason, I haven't been able to post to this website from home but can apparently post quite effectively from a 1984-era computer collecting dust in our hotel lobby; at any rate, it's nice to be someplace ridiculously hot after a frigidly cold winter in Hanoi, and I'm having lots of fun driving (slowly) from town to town at a ridiculously lazy pace, drinking too much iced coffee at the endless cafes that are scattered along the road, and which all, quite awesomely, offer hammocks for drivers to rest in. At any rate, photos of rice paddies and kids dressed up in dragon suits to follow, hopefully; till then, happy Lunar New Year!!

Happy New Year!


Holiday shopping in the "Silk Village" on the outskirts of Hanoi.

Resurfacing briefly to wish you all (er, that would be all seven of you - hi Mom!) a wonderful 2009. As always, I make too many New Year's resolutions, but at least one of them was to post photos more regularly here (for real this time). My (awesome, fearless motorbike-driving) sister is here right now, though, so for once I have an excuse for not posting anything, but lots of photos to follow, I hope, and I hope 2009 is your best year yet!

Lots of love,
Mikka

roadside elephant




Spotted on the road to Gia Long's mausoleum: apparently this is one of three elephants that live in Hue.

Mausoleum Sunset




Sunset at Gia Long's mausoleum, outside of Hue.


Back from Hue, which was one of the most beautiful cities I've seen in Vietnam - I wish we could have spent more time there but as it was, I had a great time and hope to go back someday. After three nights of night trains and night buses, I don't feel quite ready to head back to work (or didn't, rather, as I blearily taught my two Sunday classes early this morning and, as always, couldn't tell you a thing about them except that I drank coffee beforehand and it was awesome).

After the week of torrential rain at the end of November, Hanoi has been absolutely, unseasonably beautiful - cold and sunny and windy - and I'm starting to see why my students all rave about autumn here. My favorite description is by Mien, one of my former Elementary Three adults: "I like autumn in Hanoi because I don't forget the milk flower. I like to smell it at night on the absent road." I think this may be the most (accidentally) beautiful writing I've stumbled across while teaching.

bike path



Iain cycles through a flooded pathway in Lenin Park (the area in the foreground is usually a lawn).

after the rain






The rain has stopped, but the lake in Lenin Park is still overflowing (above: the back of a submerged park bench near the normal edge of the lake); this is just across the street from where I'm living at the moment. More photos of the park to come, but for now I'm just keeping my fingers tightly crossed for Obama (and for the floods to end!).



Deluge









Above: the ride home Friday, in the middle of the heaviest rainfall Vietnam has had in 24 years. My motorbike stopped working fairly early on in the storm (and is still waiting in the parking lot at work, where I left it after pushing it several flooded blocks) and I would have had to walk home from work, as there were no cabs or xe om in sight, but was rescued by Iain, who rode his bicycle out to pick me up and then heroically pedaled me, some massively heavy groceries (if you were going to be rained in, you'd want a bottle of wine or two, too) and my camera 2 miles (or 40 minute!) home. The ride back was insane - the streets near my school had turned into thigh-deep rivers of muddy, petrol-slick water and we had to hop off the bike and slog through at one point. The few people who were out on the roads seemed to be in pretty good spirits, considering that most of them were tending to similarly broken motorbikes, and a few cars were still trying to push through the rain (see above, where the water had receded somewhat) but it was still pretty nuts.

Two days later, the rain has pretty much kept up, torrentially and more relentlessly than I would have ever thought possible, though there've been some dry patches and Iain's street has remained fairly unflooded, thankfully. Nonetheless, I was a bit relieved to be woken up by a text at 6:30 am today informing me that the school was closed - yay for having an actual weeked for once, even if all we're doing is staying inside listening to the rain.

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