Showing posts with label Bon Odori. Show all posts

bon odori video







above: those two little girls totally would have been me and Maggie back when we were kids. Oh, who I am kidding: that's still me.

Please excuse the video quality, I know it's not great. Apparently, much better video WAS taken that night by a news crew: the week after our vacation, one of my students excitedly burst into class convinced that she'd seen me dancing away on a television travel program about Gujo Hachiman. Though no one else has confirmed it, I do remember seeing the film crew and Kimiko, my student, was able to tell me what shirt I was wearing and how I had my hair, so I have a sinking suspicion that the flailing gaijin she'd seen was, in fact, me. Once the flames of horrified middle-school-esque mortification abided somewhat, I did start to think that it was kind of cool that I have quite possibly been on TV in China*, Vietnam** and Japan now. I know, compared the to the rest of my family, that's nothing, but, still, three times isn't that bad for the camera-shyest of all the Tokuda-Halls :-) And that pretty much wraps it up for our vacation, which was too short and lots of fun. Now I can go back to writing about our day to day lives, which means, these days, about how insanely painfully horribly inside-of-a-supernova hot it has been for the last month. On bad days, it gets to be about 96 degrees Fahrenheight in our kitchen, which makes doing anything - blogging, writing e-mails, studying Japanese, cooking, wearing clothes - feel like an unthinkable ordeal. Fortunately, on Wednesday night, the skies opened up and we got to feel our first typhoon. Iain and I jumped our on bikes and rode down through the pouring rain to the river - past cars uneasily navigating the suddenly flooded streets and the frank stares of the few remaining pedestrians wrapped in full-body raingear. It was *amazing*.




* when I was interviewed at the beginning of our summer camp back in Hai Ning in July 2009. I burbled a lot about teaching children how to express themselves, unaware that I would spend the next four weeks holding up flashcards of farm animals and then allowing the kid who responded fastest to fling a beach ball at the bullseye drawn on the board. They loved that game. 


** when Noa, a soon-to-be-coworker, and I were interviewed at the American Club's Big Day Out back in May 2008. This video may not have aired, thanks to the fact that neither Noa or I had any idea what Big Day Out was and were thus unable to provide any sort of meaningful insight - I'm pretty sure my interview was just me going, "You mean it's like, a thing? In Australia? Not just an excuse for expats to drink cheap beer in front of a giant kangaroo poster?" Incidentally, this was the same day I later met Iain! Fortunately for me, I managed to be a bit more articulate then.

Bon Odori in Japan!


At risk of sounding like Homer Simpson*, one of my lifelong dreams has been to see a Bon Odori festival in Japan. Bon Odori as practiced by the Japanese American communities in the Bay Area and LA was always the high point of summer for me as a kid - my mom, Maggie and I would all put on yukata and join hundreds of other JAs as they marched in circles to the scratchy recordings of syrupy enka ballads or - at some of the bigger festivals - the thunderous beat of a taiko drum.  Some dances, like tanko bushi we knew by heart; others - there was one diabolically complicated katchi-katchi dance in particular - we flailed our way through. We ate greasy, sugary festival food, we'd break out of step to wave at my dad videotaping on the sidelines, we'd win armfuls of wan-looking goldfish in tiny plastic bags, none of whom ever survived more than a week. It was awesome fun. 

So one of my main reasons for visiting Gujo Hachiman was its famous month-long Bon Odori celebration. There's dancing almost every night in late July through mid August, plus five nights of all night dancing. ("Five nights!" our ryokan-owner said tiredly. "I like one night.") The night we were in town wasn't one of the epic all-nighters but I was still blown away by how much energy everyone had for their monthlong nightly dance party:


above: Check out how happy these guys are! 


Live Bon Odori music was probably the most immediate difference between Japanese and stateside festivals. 


Also the dances. Like the dances back home, anyone is welcome to jump in at any time, but these - wedged into a narrow street - felt very different, with more footwork, less fans, towels and katchi-katchis, and if some of the gestures were familiar, the sequences themselves were not.



above: Iain goes for it! 

Unfamiliarity was not a problem for Iain, who quickly threw himself into the line and went for it anyway. It seemed pretty silly to come eight hours by train and not join in, after all, so after a moment of being self-conscious, I jumped in after him. The dances weren't too hard to pick up, and we didn't get many stares - though I'm pretty sure some of the dancing experts who stick to the middle of the circle made a point of dancing beside us so we could watch their movements at least a few times. I hadn't danced in Bon Odori in a good eight or nine years - and I'm not much of a dancer in any situation - but as the expressions of unbridled glee on the two guys in the picture up earlier can attest, Bon dancing is really fun. It felt unimaginably cool to be doing it in Japan, these dances that were so different and yet familiar to the versions that I grew up doing in the States. I am so happy we got to do it. 



above: the empty streets near our ryokan

I had forgotten how tiring Bon Odori dancing can be. After three or four dances, we stopped to get some french fries (soy sauce mayo flavoured!) from one of the food stalls; the rain that had been falling lightly got a bit heavier, and we wandered back to our hotel through empty lantern-lit streets, leaving the rest of Gujo Hachiman to their dancing.

* Also, like Homer, I wouldn't mind eating the world's biggest hoagie: a year spent in Philadelphia clearly had a bigger influence one me than I realized. Mmm, hoagie.

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